This is the list I actually use on client boats. Not sponsored, not affiliate — just what works in South Florida salt, sun, and heat. I update this as products change or better ones come out. If you want my opinion on something specific, ask in the member Q&A.
Every product on this list I've used personally on client boats or my own equipment in South Florida conditions. I don't recommend anything based on marketing claims or brand name alone. South Florida is a different environment than what most products are tested and rated for — if it doesn't hold up here, it doesn't make the list.
Product formulations change. Companies get bought. What worked great two years ago sometimes gets reformulated and isn't the same product. I try to update this list when I notice changes. If something on here isn't performing the way I described, tell me — I want to know.
The most used product in your maintenance routine. It needs to be pH-neutral, rinse clean, and not strip protective coatings. These pass all three.
Biodegradable, pH-balanced, rinses completely clean with no film. Works on bare gel coat, waxed hulls, and ceramic-coated surfaces without stripping anything. Good concentration ratio — a quart makes a lot of washes. This is what I reach for by default.
pH-neutral, cleans well, no residue. Slightly more expensive per ounce than Star Brite but worth it if you're buying it from West Marine on a same-day need. Both products are in the same tier — this is not an upgrade, just an equally good option.
Good for painted surfaces and non-ceramic applications. Has a mild conditioner in it that works well on painted hulls and fiberglass. Not my first choice for ceramic-coated surfaces — some batches have left a faint haze that a straight pH-neutral soap doesn't.
If your boat has a ceramic coating, this is the product you apply after every rinse to maintain the hydrophobic layer between professional top-ups. It needs to be SiO2-based and completely free of wax or polymer sealants.
SiO2-enhanced spray that cleans lightly contaminated surfaces and tops up the hydrophobic layer in one step. Spray on, wipe in straight passes, buff off. Takes about 10 minutes for a full boat. This is what I use on client boats between professional refreshes — it extends coating life noticeably.
More of a spray coating than a detail spray — it deposits a thin SiO2 layer that actually adds measurable protection rather than just maintaining it. I use this when a coating is showing some wear and I want to boost performance without doing a full professional recoat. Apply to a clean, dry surface.
Marine-specific version of Gtechniq's popular C2. Hydrophobic, UV-resistant, and designed for the marine environment. Works on both ceramic-coated and non-ceramic surfaces. More expensive than the CarPro but has a longer lasting effect per application.
For oxidation removal and gel coat restoration. These are professional-tier products — if you're going to use them, use them correctly or you'll do more damage than good. Read the oxidation guide first if you haven't.
Heavy cut compound for Stage 2–3 oxidation. This is a real cutting product — use it with a foam cutting pad on a DA polisher, not by hand. Removes oxidation fast and leaves a relatively refined surface for a compound. Follow with a finishing polish before any coating goes on.
Light marine polish — this is the step after compound, not a replacement for it. Removes the fine swirl marks compound leaves behind and brings out the gloss in gel coat. Use with a foam finishing pad. If you only have Stage 1 oxidation, this may be all you need.
All-in-one cleaner/polish for light maintenance on non-ceramic hulls. Not a substitute for a proper cut-polish-coat process, but good for keeping a healthy gel coat looking clean between professional services. Safe to apply by hand.
South Florida UV destroys vinyl and canvas faster than anywhere. These products slow it down significantly when applied consistently.
The standard for UV protection on vinyl, rubber, and plastic. It's not a cleaner — it's a UV blocker that soaks into the surface rather than sitting on top of it. Apply to a clean, dry surface with a microfiber, let it absorb for 5 minutes, buff off any excess. Monthly application in South Florida conditions. Use it on the helm seat, leaning post, dashboard, rubber seals, and Bimini underside.
Similar chemistry to 303, slightly lower price point. Does the job on vinyl and plastic surfaces. I reach for 303 first but this works if 303 isn't available locally.
High pH strips wax, degrades ceramic coatings, and leaves a residue that attracts UV degradation. The fact that it cuts grease is exactly why you don't want it on gel coat — it cuts everything, including your protective layer.
Carnauba wax and polymer sealants sit on top of ceramic coatings and block the hydrophobic layer. The boat appears shiny but the coating can't do its job underneath. Use only SiO2-compatible products on a ceramic coat.
WD-40 is a water displacer and light lubricant — not a UV protectant. It evaporates in South Florida heat within hours and leaves a thin oily residue that attracts dust and grime. Use 303 for protection, use proper marine lubricants for moving parts.
Bleach will remove mildew stains — and also attack gel coat resin over repeated use, accelerating oxidation. Use a marine mildew remover at the appropriate concentration for fiberglass surfaces. Reserve bleach-strength cleaners for non-gel coat surfaces only.
Car wax, car wash soap, and car polish are formulated for painted automotive surfaces — not marine gel coat. They often contain solvents that damage the resin in fiberglass over time. If the label doesn't say "marine," don't use it on the boat.
If you're looking at something and want to know if it's worth buying for your situation, ask. I'll give you a straight answer with no sales angle.