What to look for every month — ceramic coat integrity, gel coat condition, waterline fouling, hardware, running gear. Catch problems early while they're cheap. This checklist covers everything from stem to stern. Do it monthly; it takes 20–30 minutes.
After washing, watch how water behaves on the hull. Tight beads that sheet off = coating healthy. Flat, slow beads or spreading water = coating thinning, apply SiO2 booster.
Wipe each major surface with a white microfiber. Slight haze = Stage 1 (normal). Obvious chalk = Stage 2 (schedule maintenance). Heavy chalk = Stage 3 (call for professional assessment).
Horizontal surfaces oxidize faster than vertical because they take direct overhead UV. Any loss of gloss here is your earliest warning sign.
Look at the hull in raking light (sun low and at an angle). Crazing shows up as fine surface cracks in a web pattern — this is a sign of deeper gel coat stress, not just surface oxidation.
Any section where the gel coat looks porous, rough to the fingernail, or yellowish-brown rather than chalky white — this is deeper contamination and needs professional evaluation before it progresses.
Waterline collects the most contamination per inch of any surface on the boat. Brown or black staining that doesn't wash off with soap needs a dedicated waterline cleaner or professional detail.
Peeling, flaking, or bare spots at the waterline edge expose the hull to fouling and corrosion. Note any areas where the paint is lifting.
Slime, barnacle starts, and bio-fouling grow fast in South Florida's warm water. If you see barnacle starts, your bottom paint may need a fresh coat or reapplication sooner than scheduled.
Barnacles attached to the hull below the paint line — not just starting, but attached — mean the antifouling is not working in that area. Do not let this go. Growth accelerates exponentially in warm water.
Surface rust (orange streaking) on stainless is salt contamination — a polish with a stainless cleaner and consistent post-trip rinsing will address it. Pitting is deeper corrosion and may indicate hardware failure risk.
Dock lines take enormous loads. Give each cleat a firm pull test. Any movement, looseness, or visible gap between the base and the deck needs immediate attention before a line load reveals it.
Salt seizes hinges and corrodes latch mechanisms. Each hatch and door should open and close smoothly. Seals should be supple — cracked or hardened seals leak water below decks.
Run your hand around each through-hull below the waterline (or accessible ones on a dry boat). Any moisture, white powdery corrosion, or play in the fitting needs professional inspection before next splash.
South Florida mildew grows on canvas within days of moisture contact. Black or green spots appearing between washes mean the canvas needs a mildew treatment and better airflow when stowed.
Check where the frame connects to the deck and where support arms attach. Corrosion at connection points or play in the frame mounting can make these structures fail in wind or wake.
UV dries out marine vinyl quickly in South Florida. Cracking starts at seams and stress points. A UV-protectant spray (303 Aerospace or equivalent) monthly extends vinyl life significantly.
Even small nicks on prop blades cause vibration and efficiency loss. Barnacle growth on props causes significant drag and can damage seals. Note any damage — props can often be reconditioned without full replacement.
Trim tab actuators are exposed constantly. Check for pitting or corrosion on the rams, and verify full range of motion at the tab surface. Seized actuators are a common pre-haul surprise.
Anodes protect your hardware from galvanic corrosion. If your anode is less than 50% remaining, replace it. A fully consumed anode means everything it was protecting is now corroding.
Take a photo of anything you flagged this inspection. Date it. This record becomes your before/after comparison for next month and gives your mechanic or detailer a starting point.
Anything you find during this inspection that you're not sure about — send me a photo with a brief description through the member Q&A and I'll tell you if it needs immediate action or just monitoring. That's exactly what the membership is for. Ask a question →
Describe it or send a photo through the member Q&A. You'll get a direct answer within 24 hours — not a generic "call your mechanic" brush-off.